Having issues with your XT60 connectors burning up? Want to easily replace your Ender 3 Power wires? Choose a file. Save Review. Save Question. Save Video. Save Photo. Show everything Show all reviews Show all questions Show all videos Show all photos Show helpful positive reviews Show helpful negative reviews Show unanswered questions.
Pre-crimped and heat shrunk High quality 12 gauge silicone wire 1-meter wire length Pre-stripped for board connection to the proper length. Description Additional information Discussion 1 No special tools needed. Only the stock hex wrenches and Phillips screwdriver needed to swap out the wires.
Pre-crimped and heat shrunk Double crimped with industrial terminals on the ends Heat-shrunk for better appearance and strain relief Hand-made by TH3D in the USA with foreign and domestic parts. Just make sure to strip the cut end the same length that we stripped them when they shipped. Too long and it will leave exposed wire outside of the screw terminal Too short and it will not make good contact PSU side fork terminals may be a tight fit on some PSU models but will fit Stock Ender 3 PSU and Meanwell PSUs If it is tight then unscrew the screw a little more than needed and insert the connector in at a slight angle then tighten down.
Pre-stripped for board connection to the proper length Insert fully into the motherboard power terminal.About Us Company Story. Review Program. Reseller Program. Company Development. Download Firmware. Firmware for BL touch. Slicing Software. Source Code. Source Code for BLtouch. SD card File. News Industry Insights. Makers Guide. Company News. Knowledge Base. Online Store. CR-6 SE. Contact US. Technical Support. Industry Insights.
Product News Creality V1. Ever since its release, Ender-3 has created its shipment record ofunits in The broad DIY upgradability of this machine enables our users to enjoy a sense of accomplishment of being a product engineer. Among all the upgrades and mods, the V1. This little chip is capable of upgrading the base stepper motor drivers to TMC-branded stepper drivers, greatly reducing the sound profile during prints.
Equipped with the functional electronic components for lightning protection, anti-static protection, anti-short circuit protection, overpower protection, the V1. It adopts high quality MOS tube for better heat dissipation to prolong the service life of the motherboard and the printer.
The installation of the silent motherboard V1. It broads all the necessary interfaces including BL-Touch auto-leveling device and filament sensor.
Install BL-Touch on Ender 3 With SKR Board
As it comes with the default Marlin 1. The Creality V1. Creality focuses on improving product quality and user experience quality. The ultra-silent system of the V1. About Us. Leading brand of 3D Printing Solution Provider. Company Email: info creality.It might get tricky but bear with us. The Creality Ender 3 is a low cost, compact, pre-assembled 3D printer that has become incredibly popular among engineers and hobbyists alike. It features admirable print volume and print quality for its price.
It is also highly customizable with a variety of upgrades available… including the BLTouch. A BLTouch is an automatic levelling sensor that measures the height and tilt of a 3D printing surface to ensure a more precise print job. It works on a variety of surfaces, including glass, wood and metal. The Creality Ender 3 has faced a steady stream of criticism due to its slight wobble from an uneven base.
This makes it especially tricky to level, which can compromise the quality of your printing. The BLTouch re-levels the bed surface of your printer to ensure a precise print job every time. You want the connector inside of the bracket, ensuring that the holes of the BLTouch line up with the holes on top of the bracket. The screws are to be inserted bottom-up, where the head of the screw faces the floor.
Then, put a spring on top of the bolt, where the largest part of the spring is facing the top. The goal is to have the top of the bolt come out of the hole so that you can use a securing nut on this end to maintain its position. Now, you can easily put the front nut on by repeating the process as outlined above. Be sure to check that each of your springs is holding a similar amount of tension- otherwise the BLTouch will lean one way or another. Once these are removed, use a 2mm Allen key to remove the 2 screws securing the front cover of the extruder assembly.
Next, use the screws you just removed to attach the bracket to the mainframe. Then, you can screw the bracket to the front by lining up the holes with the original placement of the extruder cover.
Use the Allen key to make adjustments if necessary. Phase 3: Wiring and Programming Remove the 2 screws on the front cover of the printer and the 2 screws that hold the whole assembly to the frame. Slide the Y-axis all the way forward and remove the motherboard's back cover screw. Slide the Y-axis all the way back, then remove the motherboard cover.
Disconnect the fans by pulling out the red wire. Set the assembly aside. Remove the final screw in the motherboard, support it entirely in one hand, disconnect the z pin, and lay it down gently. Use your clippers to remove the zip tie that holds the cable assembly together. Now, be extremely careful as you separate the sleeve tape from the cables. Try making a small incision and carefully rip it off.
You can then begin fishing the extension cables through the sleeve to connect the BLTouch to the motherboard.
Bunch the sleeve up to move it away from the control box components. Insert the male ends of the wires into the sleeve. Next, pop out the LCD connector and set it aside.So let's get started. But the final wiring is a bit different on the Creality board, so would recommend looking for a custom tutorial video. This video is a straightforward install with the firmware available on the git repository directly for download without the need for compiling.
I agree, it won't be the latest version but at least the steps are easier to follow and you can upgrade the firmware to the newer one, once it's available. The BL-Touch is a high precision auto levelling solenoid and hall sensor which can precisely measure the tilt of the bed surface. It works on any kind of printing bed, such as glass, wood, metal and so on.
Opening up the box we have included screws, Burner which i will not be using, Bl-Touch sensor with an additional probe, this is the BL-touch 3. We need to install the sensor in line with the extruder, which is possible with the provided frame.
The screw holes and bolt hole match up, and being part of the kit you don't need to print one anymore. The frame is also metal, which will be sturdier than PLA anyway. We are provided M3x6 and M3X8 which are 6mm and 8mm M3 screws. These will be used to fasten the sensor to the frame. Before we install the frame to the printer, we mount the sensor on it. Use the screws provided to mount the sensor, this is how it looks, the connectors on the sensor point towards the length of the frame.
Now we need to get the cover off the extruder and fan.Ender 3 - how to fix the mainboard fan so it stays on - also works on the ender 3 pro!
Once the screws are removed the cover pops off like this. Place the frame on the mount, aligning the screw holes, and tighten the screws to fix in place. Before attaching the sensor to the frame I insert the connector into the BL-touch. Make sure of the direction before inserting. I found that the threads on the BL-Touch were not being held up by the screws and it kept falling.
I then rummaged through my son's electronics kit and mounted the bltouch using a screw and nut instead, which held the sensor in place so much better. Next we cut the zip ties holding down the wire sheath, and snake the sensor wires all the way down to the main controller board. Now to install the sensor wires onto the main controller board. We need to take the top cover off as we had done earlier.
Two screws in the front and one in the rear.
New Upgrade Silent Mainboard V1.1.5
Pull in the sensor wire from the hole in the bottom to the front over the motherboard. Here they are, the power and z stop connectors. But there is one, not a problem but still an important step to take before connecting to the SKR board. These being du-pont connectors, pry up the lugs and pull the connectors out. Once out, rearrange the wires into the correct slots and you should feel it clicking in, which indicates that the wires have locked in place.
Now insert the connector into the sensor plug, make sure to match the direction.
Also unplug the Z-stop connector and connect the one from the sensor. The sensor handles all the z-stops now. As I didn't snake the wire through the harness, I used duct tape to attach it externally all the way to the bottom. Now we need to flash the new firmware with the configuration for BL-touch present. So open up the SKR mini E3 git, download firmware-bltouch-for-z-homing. Make sure to download " firmware-bltouch-for-z-homing. With the z-homing firmware, it will level itself at the center of the bed instead of the corner.Creality's Ender 3 is a good budget 3D printer and rightfully popular, but I guess everyone owning it can confirm:.
This guide will show you how to use 12V parts in a 24V print, replace the fans and install a new duct for part cooling from both sides. Big thanks to Noctua for providing me with some of their high-end silent fans and 2print3D for sending me an new board after the Y-Driver died on mine unrelated to this project! For this guide, I used the BantaMount Beta from bantam. Dual 40mm Fans is used from here on, if you choose something else or Blower fans, adjust accordingly.
I used Noctua fans for this project, because they are well-known to be almost inaudible and a silent printer was the ultimate goal here for me. Their OmniJoin Adapter Kit that comes with the FLX versions of the fans saves us time by reducing the required soldering points and lets us use a regular fan plug, so we dont have to modify the Noctua fans them self.
The Ender 3 runs on 24V, but our fans are only rated for 12V. The Noctua fans have a 3-Pin connector, but our Ender board uses 2-Pin fan sockets. The first problem can be overcome by implementing Step Down modules, which convert our 24V source to and 12V output by adjusting them correctly. The second one is just solved by simply cutting and reusing the original connector. You might be able to source fitting 24V fans too, but they tend to be noisy.
I also used 40x10 fans for the part cooling, but some headroom for more airflow by using the 40x20 instead might come in handy. But so far, my 40x10 seem to be enough too. If you have them already, use them. If not, buy 40x20 instead. To really make a difference, you will need to have ether Nema Stepper Dampers or a Silent Board installed. Its really to no use if you make your fans silent, but the stepper motors sing their song all the time you are printing. Stepper dampers are dirt cheap, but you might need to buy heatsink and print new mounts too.
You cant put one on your extruder or Z-Stepper, so retraction and Z-Hop is still pretty loud. Its nearly a drop-in-replacement and comes with all the bells and whistles you could want. And it makes your steppers quiet, obviously. This step requires you to open the power supply and measure voltage on 2 pins which have either 12V or 24V while its connected to mains voltage V or V! If you feel uncomfortable doing so, skip this step and leave the PSU as it is.
It shouldn't be dangerous, as you measure on cables outside the PSU itself and dont come into contact with the main power, but be warned anyway! Unplug the PSU from power and flip the power switch a few times to discharge the remaining voltage.
After that, disconnect the yellow XT60 connector under the heatbed, remove the screws attaching the PSU to the Z-beams and move your printer out of the way for now. Depending on the model of your PSU, remove the remaining screws attaching the cover with the fan to the rest of the PSU housing. Lift the cover just enough to unplug the fan before trying to remove it completely. Be careful not to touch anything else!
Prepare your new printed cover by attaching the bigger fan and fan grill, leave the fan cable as it is for now. I kept the original airflow direction blowing out on my model, check yours and rotate the fan if needed.
Blowing fresh air in seems to be the logical way to cool the PSU, but I guess they have a reason why they let it blow out instead of in. And we dont want it to blow up either, right? Cut the original connector and wires near the fan, so you have as much cable es possible to work with. The 2 wires should be color-coded, red for positive and black for negative ground.Creality3D Spring Sale!
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Close search. It has formed a large user base at home and abroad in just a few months. The global search for Google 3D printers quickly climbed to the top of the list 60, searches in Novemberbecoming the CR Another popular item in the world, what makes it so fast to gain market and user recognition? In addition, Ender-3's excellent quality foundation provides tremendous DIY upgrade potential. In recent months, we have seen a growing and vibrant community that is eager to explore and develop enhanced modules for this great 3D printer.
As the original manufacturer, we are so encouraged to be a lean product for ourselves. We feel that there is something that is not a taste. At the same time, we are more proud and grateful for this. We have so many valuable suggestions and directions for improvement. The following is the Ender-3 enhancement strategy. The process is still annoying for a long time, the BLTouch automatic leveling sensor is A great Ender-3 upgrade module that offers a variety of smart features, self-test technology, alarm, alarm release and test modes.
By adding this Ender 3 upgrade to your machine, you will reduce calibration time and frustration. BLTouch's assembly and programming process is a bit time consuming, but if you plan to use a 3D printer for a long time, it's well worth it.
To run this great web control interface, you need to purchase a Raspberry Pi board. OctoPrint allows you to control and view your Creality Ender-3 3D printer from a web browser. On the browser, you can view the print through the embedded webcam, control the print temperature, get feedback on the current print status, and even start and pause the printer wherever you are.
The setup process is very simple and all the details can be found on octoprint. Most importantly, the use of a glass bed also allows for a smoother surface at the bottom of the print, which is a lovely benefit for those who value visual quality and does not need to scrape off the blue tape and glue, but It can be easily cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. The kit includes an extruder and V6 HotEnd, which is coordinated with E3D's modular ecosystem and is very lightweight and sturdy.
The tight filament path makes Titan Aero the perfect choice for flexible and specialty filaments. This Creality Ender 3 3D printer upgrade also reduces the impact of impact and impact on print quality. In addition, the extruder is easy to install and has powerful features to easily load and unload filaments, manually extrude material, adjust idler tension and clean debris.
This high quality A2 hardened tool steel nozzle is coated with TwinClad XT, a nickel composite that is hard and corrosion resistant. This Creality Ender 3 3D printer upgrade will greatly extend the life of the nozzle, so it is especially worthwhile for those who use the printer consistently. One option is to connect the LED strips and insert them into the gaps in the various aluminum extrusions of the frame.
You can also use a 3D printer to generate mounts for these LEDs. This upgrade reduces vibration and reduces noise, making printing smoother and eliminating the potential for any squid skin or other surface quality problems. In fact, these boards are a great complement to any budget 3D printer. As mentioned earlier, the plastic feeder assembly mounted on the Ender-3 is a bit impressive.
This all-metal feeder assembly is an original MK8 extruder made of aluminum and is a major upgrade to the cheaper plastics that come with most Corey 3D printers.Replacing your fans on the Ender 3 will help lower the noise and possibly push more air. Take note of the voltages of the fans below before purchasing new fans. Test center of bed to confirm a completely flat bed. Raise or lower other 4 corners and re-level if necessary. Note: Make sure there is no extra pressure on the bed.
Any pressure on the bed will cause incorrect leveling due to the compression of the springs on the leveling screws. You must log in to post a comment.
Callibrating G-Codes. Building Your Creality Ender 3. The Creality Ender 3 Build Guide. Official Creality Ender 3 Build Manual. Lets Print 3D Build Guide. Maker Steve Build Guide. Thomas Sanladerer Build Video Youtube. Printer Upgrades. Quieter Fans. Sunon 40mm Amazon. NTE 40mm Amazon. Auto Bed Leveling. Automatically levels bed using software Less time spent manually adjusting bed Works with most aftermarket firmware.
BLTouch Sensor Amazon. Glass Bed. Borosilicate Glass Bed Amazon. Install OctoPrint Raspberry Pi 3.